Diamonds
in the Rough
The hidden gems of northwest Ireland
by
Colin Sheehan
It
is not difficult to understand why Ireland has become such a
hot golf destination. Royal County Down, Royal Portrush, Ballybunion,
Portmarnock, Lahinch—the country offers serious golfers
the opportunity to make the rounds of some of the finest courses
in the world. But its legendary courses are hardly a well-kept
secret, and as a result, tee times in the most popular areas—the
southwest, Dublin and Northern Ireland—are becoming increasingly
scarce. For those in the know, the real secret to golf in Ireland
is found in the northwest counties of Donegal, Sligo, Mayo and
Connemara. Known for being very laid back, even by Irish standards,
the northwest is in many ways the most authentic destination
in the Emerald Isle—in fact, it is where the Irish themselves
go for vacation. A starkly rugged region of twisting roads,
cozy pubs and endless craggy coastlines, it offers a wealth
of hidden golfing gems. And though Rosses Point, Enniscrone,
Connemara, Rosapenna, Narin & Portnoo, Ballyliffin, Port
Salon, Cruit Island and Belmullet may be off the beaten path,
their allure is only enhanced by their splendid isolation. Visitors
should be not be misled by the modest clubhouses and bargain
greens fees—the courses provide a truly unique golfing
experience. Exposed to gale force winds and guarded by untamable
rough, they play over terrain so ruggedly awesome, the holes
defy comparison to other links courses. Indeed, more than a
few foursomes come away feeling they have played to the end
of the earth.
Enniscrone
Not
far from the charming town of Ballina in County Sligo, Enniscrone
glows with pride after the addition of seven thrilling holes
by Donald Steel. Routed over acres of rugged terrain which were
too daunting to work with 40 years ago, the new design now elevates
Enniscrone to the top echelon of links courses in Ireland.
The 13th hole at Enniscrone
Connemara
In
the remote region of Connemara, far removed from civilization,
golfers are drawn to the unique links amid a rocky countryside
which could best be compared to that of the moon. The course
makes excellent use of its austere terrain, rocky outcroppings
and springy turf, and serves as a fine reward to anyone who
is willing to make the trek.
The 18th hole at Connemara
Ballyliffin
Near
the tip of the Inishowen Peninsula, in sight of the Glashedy
Rock which rises up from the shimmering waters of Pollan Bay,
the two courses at Ballyliffin certainly compete with the breathtaking
scenery. The Old is routed over the natural contours of the
land while the Glashed has been shaped to reflect a modern architectural
character.
The 6th hole at Ballyliffen
Cruit Island
The
most obscure of the courses in the region, Cruit Island (pronounced
“crick”) is a nine-holer with a thrilling pitch
over the ocean. Though the course only dates back
to the mid 1980s, the links have a timelessness that suggests
a 19th century origin, and the stiff winds from the Atlantic
ensure that no hole plays the same on the second time around.
The 6th hole at Cruit Island
Belmullet
In
the west of County Mayoa lies an unforgettable links experience
at Belmullet. The first 18 were completed in the early 1990s,
and Jim Engh recently added nine more. In each case, the holes
scurry through narrow valleys buffered on both sides by colossal
sand dunes, whose windswept peaks dwarf golfers with their awesome
presence and scale.
The 17th hole at Carne
Rosses Point
In
the land of W.B. Yeats, Rosses Point treats golfers to
the most elegant course in the region, a Harry Colt masterpiece.
With dramatic elevation changes-something rare for a links course—the
views offer a sweeping panoramic of town, harbor, beaches and
the menacing mountain of Ben Bulben, a particular favorite of
Ireland’s greatest poet.
The 17th hole at Rosses Point
Rosapenna
The
Rosapenna Hotel has been attracting golfers to the tranquil
shores of Sheephaven Bay since Old Tom Morris laid out the original
course over a century ago. But golfers now have an even greater
option—the Sandy Hills Links designed by Irish architect
Pat Ruddy, who has made shrewd use of the landscape to create
some of the best par-3 holes in all of Ireland.
The 15th hole at Rosapenna
